Most jon boat problems are hull problems. A soft bow, a rivet that weeps, a gunwale that sits two inches higher than the deck. The motor mount is a different kind of problem, because it is the one part of a trolling motor setup that has to carry thrust, torque and vibration on an aluminum hull that was never reinforced for any of it. Getting the right trolling motor mounts for jon boats is what separates a motor that steers the boat from a motor that ratchets the bow sideways on the first hard turn.
We spent weeks reading spec sheets, owner reviews and angler forum threads on this problem, then matched ten mounts against the hulls they are actually sold for. What came out of that is a roundup with a bias: jon boat owners care less about brand names and more about plate size, gunwale clearance, backing hardware and whether the whole thing can come off at the trailer.
Where to mount a trolling motor on a jon boat? On the bow deck, on the transom, or along the side, depending on how you fish and how much room your hull has.
Bow mount bracket — the default on jon boats. Steers with foot or remote control, keeps both hands free for casting, and adds forward weight that most jon hulls actually want.
Transom mount bracket — the simplest possible install, lever-clamps onto the stern with no drilling at all, but you steer it with a hand tiller and the motor sits low in the water.
Side mount — rare on jon boats because the flat sides and riveted panels are exactly where you do not want to drill, but it solves the bow-is-already-crowded problem.
Ten mounts made the cut, and they span three very different answers to that question: clamp a plate to the gunwale, bolt a quick-release puck to the bow deck, or clamp a bracket to the transom. The rest of this guide breaks down each one, then explains the hardware details that decide whether your mount survives a season.
Table of Contents
- Top 3 Picks for Trolling Motor Mounts on Jon Boats (October 2026)
- All 10 Trolling Motor Mounts for Jon Boats Compared in 2026
- How We Picked These Mounts
- 1. EZ Mount Universal Bow Bracket for Jon Boats
- 2. Minn Kota MKA-16-03 Quick Release Bracket
- 3. Brocraft Removable Aluminum Deck Mount
- 4. besttruck Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount
- 5. Pelican Transom Kayak Motor Mount
- 6. Haswing Quick Mount Bow Bracket
- 7. Newport Heavy Gauge Aluminum Transom Mount
- 8. Wilderness Systems Stainless Steel Transom Mount
- 9. Endura Transom Mount Bracket 2991815A
- 10. Sunluway MKA-21 Composite Quick Release Bracket
- Bow, Transom or Side Mount: Which One Does a Jon Boat Need?
- Plate Size, Material and the Hardware That Actually Holds
- How to Mount a Trolling Motor on a Jon Boat
- Why Trolling Motor Mounts Walk Off a Jon Boat Bow
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Where to mount a trolling motor on a jon boat?
- Should I mount my trolling motor on the front or back of my boat?
- Do I need a backing plate to mount a trolling motor on aluminum?
- What size bolts do I need for a trolling motor mount?
- Can you use a transom mount trolling motor on the bow?
- Is a 2 blade or 3 blade prop better for trolling motors?
- Bottom Line on Jon Boat Trolling Motor Mounts
Top 3 Picks for Trolling Motor Mounts on Jon Boats (October 2026)
EZ Mount Universal Jon Bow…
- Clamp-on bow mount with no drilling
- Marine-grade aluminum
- Fits gunels under 3 inch wide
Minn Kota MKA-16-03 Quick…
- Quick release bow mount
- Solid anodized aluminum
- Padlock hole
- Fits Ulterra and Terrova
Brocraft Removable Deck Mount
- Removable deck mount
- Aluminum and nylon
- Compact standard size
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All 10 Trolling Motor Mounts for Jon Boats Compared in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
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EZ Mount Universal Bow Bracket for Jon Boats
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Check Latest Price |
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Minn Kota MKA-16-03 Quick Release Bracket
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Check Latest Price |
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Brocraft Removable Aluminum Deck Mount
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Check Latest Price |
besttruck Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount
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Check Latest Price |
Pelican Transom Kayak Motor Mount
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Check Latest Price |
Haswing Quick Mount Bow Bracket
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Check Latest Price |
Newport Heavy Gauge Aluminum Transom Mount
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Check Latest Price |
Wilderness Systems Stainless Steel Transom Mount
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Check Latest Price |
Endura Transom Mount Bracket 2991815A
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Check Latest Price |
Sunluway MKA-21 Composite Quick Release Bracket
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Check Latest Price |
We earn from qualifying purchases. CERTAIN CONTENT THAT APPEARS ON THIS SITE COMES FROM AMAZON. THIS CONTENT IS PROVIDED 'AS IS' AND IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE OR REMOVAL AT ANY TIME.
How We Picked These Mounts
This is an editorial selection, not a lab test. We read published specifications, cross-checked them against owner reviews, and used recurring angler forum complaints as a filter for anything that would fail on a thin aluminum jon hull.
Six things decided the order. Fit for a jon boat specifically, not just for a boat in general. Whether the mount needs drilling and whether the supplied hardware is long enough to reach a backing plate. Whether the motor can be removed for transport. How much deck space the base eats on a small bow. Corrosion resistance if the boat ever sees brackish water. And whether the mount holds thrust when the deck is flexing, which is the failure nobody can see until it happens.
Where a product has weak reviews, we say so rather than skipping it. The Endura bracket in this list carries the lowest rating of the ten, and it stays in because a lot of jon boat owners are trying to replace one specific broken part rather than buy the best available option.
1. EZ Mount Universal Bow Bracket for Jon Boats
Pro Controll EZ Mount – Universal Trolling Motor Mount for Jon Boats | Bow Installation | No Drilling Required | Fits Gunnels < 3" Wide | Easy to Install
- Bow mount
- Marine-grade aluminum
- Clamp-on with no drilling
- Fits gunels under 3 inch wide
Pros
- Tool-free clamp-on install with no drilling into the hull
- Purpose-built for jon and utility boats with narrow gunnels
- Marine-grade aluminum resists corrosion
Cons
- Only fits gunels under 3 inch wide and 1 inch deep
- Bow-only mounting position
- Clamp pressure must be checked periodically
This is the only mount in the roundup that was designed for the hull rather than adapted to it, and you can feel that in how little thought the install takes. The bracket grabs the gunwale, the motor bolts to the top, and the whole assembly comes off in one piece when you get to the ramp. No holes, no sealant, no backing plate, no wondering whether your deck is thin enough to crack.
The clamp is sized for gunnels under 3 inch wide and 1 inch deep, which covers a lot of 12 to 16 ft jon boats with conventional side strakes and leaves the deck completely untouched. I would measure your gunwale before anything else, because a wide flat-bottom hull with a tall square rub rail will not fit and no amount of forcing will make it safe.
Owners consistently talk about the same two things: how quick it goes on, and how solid the fit feels once it is clamped. The body is marine-grade aluminum, so it handles rain, spray and a wet landing better than the plastic and coated-steel alternatives in this price band, and the listed weight is not stated, which is worth asking about if you are counting bow weight.
At roughly 12 by 9 by 9 inches overall, the bracket is compact enough to leave casting room on a narrow bow. The design lets the motor be tilted and raised without walking the plate around, which is the motion that loosens bolted mounts in rough water.
Who This Mount Suits
It is the right answer for an angler who rents boats, borrows boats, or owns more than one hull, because nothing is permanently attached. It is also the safest choice on a riveted aluminum hull where you would rather not open a seam. Two people trolling a wide flat water lake with a modest motor is exactly the use case it was built for.
If your boat already carries a bow mount motor you like, this bracket lets you move that motor between hulls in minutes instead of re-drilling anything.
Where It Falls Short
The gunnel specification is a real limit, not marketing copy. Measure the top of your rub rail and the depth of the channel you are clamping into before you order, and if the gunnel is wider than 3 inch you need a different approach entirely, such as a bolt-on plate with a backing doubler.
Because the mount grips the gunwale rather than the deck, it puts the motor a little higher and a little further out than a low deck plate would. In big chop that extra moment arm is noticeable, and a bow-mounted fish finder in front of the motor can be awkward to work. This is a bow-position mount only, so it does nothing for a stern setup.
2. Minn Kota MKA-16-03 Quick Release Bracket
Minn Kota MKA-16-03 Quick Release Bracket for Trolling Motors
- Bow mount quick release
- Solid anodized aluminum
- 4.3 lb
- Padlock hole included
Pros
- Highest rating and review count in the roundup
- Quiet rattle-free lock with no movement
- Motor slides off in minutes for transport
- Reuses existing Minn Kota bolt patterns on older bases
Cons
- Single side screw is the main load point
- Included hardware is bright-coated rather than stainless
- Adds 2 to 3 inches of motor offset off the bow
- Anti-seize compound recommended but not included
This is the most-reviewed bracket here by a wide margin, and the reason is simple: it is the factory solution for the most common bow mount motors on the water. If your motor is a Minn Kota Ulterra, Terrova, PowerDrive, PowerDrive V2, PowerDrive Pontoon or Deckhand 40, the bolt pattern lines up and the install becomes a five-minute job instead of a drilling project.
The architecture is the standard two-stage quick release that anglers describe on tackle forums. A bottom bracket bolts to the deck, the top bracket attaches to the motor with side screws, and the motor slides into the bottom bracket and locks. The anodized aluminum construction is what makes it quiet, and quiet matters on a jon boat where every rattle in the bow competes with birds and shallow water fish.
Owners love that the motor comes off in minutes. Whether you are trailering a long distance, switching from a bow mount to a transom setup at a ramp, or just want the motor out of reach in a parking lot, the slide-and-lock motion is the whole point of the product. There is a padlock hole for the days the motor stays installed, which is a small feature that wins over people with an expensive motor on an open trailer.
At 4.3 pounds and 14.75 by 9 by 1.25 inches, this is the heaviest single item in the roundup. That is a fair trade for anodized aluminum, but on a 12 ft hull with a small outboard you should think about where the battery is going before the motor goes on.
What to Check Before You Drill
Measure the head of your motor, not the motor. Quick release brackets are sized to the motor head, and the standard 7 by 20 inch plate and the 9 by 14 inch wide plate are not interchangeable. Buying the wrong pattern means a return, and on a pointed modified-V bow you may find the deck space for the wide pattern is not there anyway.
Also count the existing holes in your deck. Owners who reused factory-drilled holes on older boats report the shortest install of all, and if your boat is a riveted aluminum hull, matching those rivet lines is the difference between a reinforced mount and a new stress point.
Where It Falls Short
The single side screw is the most common reservation in the reviews, and it is a fair one. It is the fastener that carries the motor as the head turns under thrust, so inspect it before every trip and follow the maker’s torque guidance rather than guessing.
The included bolts are bright-coated, not stainless. On a jon boat that lives in rain, spray or brackish water, that is the hardware that will show rust first, so plan on replacing the deck fasteners with 1/4 inch stainless and nyloc nuts. The mount also pushes the motor 2 to 3 inches further off the bow tip than a flat plate does, which eats into an already short casting platform.
3. Brocraft Removable Aluminum Deck Mount
Brocraft Trolling Motor Mount Bracket, Removable Deck Mount for Clamp-On Electric Trolling Motors, Marine Aluminum & Nylon, Boat Motor Mount
- Removable deck mount
- Aluminum and nylon
- 3 lb
- Compact standard size
Pros
- Deck plate and motor bracket both removable
- Compact size suits small bows
- Aluminum and nylon rated for fresh and salt water
- Manufacturer replaced parts when a post did not fit
Cons
- Included bolts are about 1 inch and too short with washers
- One report of aluminum cracking at the bend
- Replacement support was slow to respond
This is the mount for a jon boat with a real deck rather than a bare gunwale, and for an angler who wants a permanent base with a removable motor on top. A deck plate bolts down once, the motor bracket lifts away when you are done, and the bow is clear for fishing or for moving a load forward. That two-stage design is the difference between a permanent bow mount and a semi-permanent one.
It is rated for salt water, which is unusual for a bracket at this level, and the aluminum and nylon combination shrugs off brackish creeks better than the all-plastic options further down this list. At 3 pounds it adds real weight to the nose, so on a 12 ft boat with a gas motor already up front, plan the trim before the install.
Owners repeatedly say the mount is far more substantial than the photographs suggest, and that it holds a clamp-on electric motor on aluminum boats without the flex they expected. Several mention pairing it with a backing plate, and that combination is the reason it works on a hull with no factory reinforcement.
The compact standard size is the practical headline. Jon boat owners who wanted a wide adjustable bracket often find their bow simply does not have the room, and this one was designed to fit where other plates overhang the deck edge.
Who This Mount Suits
It fits anglers who fish one boat hard, in salt or brackish water, and want a fixed mounting point they can trust. It is also a good match for a boat that doubles as a tender, since the motor can come off and the base plate stays. On a modified-V hull with a raised forward casting deck, the flat base sits more predictably than a wedge-style bracket.
If you already own a clamp-on motor and a set of existing holes, this is a straightforward bolt-through job with a backing doubler underneath.
Where It Falls Short
The supplied bolts are the biggest complaint in the reviews, and the complaint is fair. At roughly 1 inch they run out of length once you add washers, the deck plate and a backing plate, which is exactly the stack that prevents pull-through. Buy longer stainless fasteners before you start, not after the first crack in the deck.
There is also one report of the aluminum cracking at the bend where the bracket transitions from flat to upright, and customers report slow response from support before a follow-up email. Treat the bracket as a permanent piece rather than something you will reconfigure often, and re-torque it at the start of each season.
4. besttruck Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount
Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount for Kayaks/Kayak Motor Mount
- Transom mount
- Stainless hardware with nylon body
- Rated to 3 HP
- Four drilled holes
Pros
- Stainless hardware and nylon body resist corrosion
- Handles high-thrust motors without flexing
- Only four holes needed to install
- Backed by a 30-day return and one-year warranty
Cons
- Included bolts can be too short for high-thrust motors
- Some Allen heads arrive loose and need checking
- Heavier than expected for a small-boat accessory
A transom mount is the honest answer for a lot of jon boats, particularly older ones with a full-width stern, a raised gunwale, or a bow that already carries a fish finder. It lever-clamps onto the back, the install is short, and you can get the motor off a 13 ft boat in a single afternoon with a drill and a hand saw.
Owners of this bracket keep saying it is overbuilt for the money, with several running 55 to 80 pound thrust motors on it without complaint. The stainless hardware and nylon body are specified as corrosion resistant and waterproof, which is what you want on a boat that lives in a wet dock slip or a coastal creek.
The install needs four drilled holes in a flat spot on the stern, which on a jon boat means a spot with no strakes, no rivet line and no seam in the way. Take a template to the boat, mark all four holes before you drill the first one, and you can do the whole job in under an hour with a hand drill.
Be aware of the weight. At about 3.3 pounds, this is one of the heavier accessories in the roundup, and that number surprised more than one buyer who expected a lightweight kayak part. It is sitting at the back of the boat rather than the front, so it works against the tendency of jon hulls to want weight forward, but on a stern-heavy rig with the load in the middle it is not a problem.
Who This Mount Suits
It suits first-time trolling motor owners who want the cheapest path to quiet, controllable movement and are willing to steer with the tiller. It is a good match for a 12 or 14 ft hull fished in flat water, weed beds or open water, and for anyone who wants a removable setup they can carry to a different boat.
Because it is a universal transom bracket, it suits anglers who switch between hulls of similar size. The 3 HP rating covers the clamp-on electric motors most jon boat owners actually use.
Where It Falls Short
The included bolts are too short for some setups, and that is the single most repeated warning. With a high-thrust motor working the mount against chop and current, undersized fasteners are the first thing to back out. Replace them with longer stainless hardware and nyloc nuts before the first trip.
Owners also report that some Allen heads arrive loose and need checking after the first few hours of running. This is a hand-tiller mount, so you give up foot control and remote steering entirely, which is a real loss if you like to fish hands free from the bow. It will not take a gas outboard of any size.
5. Pelican Transom Kayak Motor Mount
Pelican Transom Kayak Motor Mount – Quick & Easy Trolling Motor Setup – The Catch Series – Black
- Transom mount
- Fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene
- 1.5 lb
- Five bolts, nuts and washers included
Pros
- Factory-matched fit for the listed Pelican models
- Fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene handles marine conditions
- All mounting hardware included in the box
Cons
- Limited to three listed Pelican kayak models
- Plastic is less rigid than aluminum over time
- Not a jon boat bracket in any meaningful sense
We are including this one for completeness, and the honest reason is that a good transom mount is worth comparing even if this specific bracket is not going on your boat. The build is fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene, it comes with five bolts, five nuts and ten washers, and at 1.5 pounds it is the lightest item in the roundup by a margin.
Satisfaction with it is almost entirely tied to owning one of the three listed Pelican models, the Catch PWR 100, Catch Mode 110 and Getaway 110. On those hulls it drops in and works, which is what the reviews describe. The lower share of top ratings comes from people who expected a universal fit on other boats and found out quickly that it is not one.
If you own a jon boat and a compatible Pelican kayak, this bracket becomes a genuinely useful spare. You can run the same clamp-on motor on the kayak and on the jon hull without carrying two mounts, and the flat stern of a jon boat is a far easier surface to mount to than a bow.
The one-year limited warranty against defects in materials and workmanship is standard for the category and unremarkable, but it is at least stated in writing.
Should You Actually Buy This One?
Only if you tick one box: you own a listed Pelican model, or you want a lightweight backup transom bracket for a very small hull. On a 12 ft jon boat with a narrow stern, the dimensions at 11 by 8.13 by 5.1 inches can overhang the transom, so measure the flat area behind your motor pocket before committing.
For everyone else, look at the aluminum transom mounts in this list instead. They cost more in the listing and they last longer, which is the better trade on a hull you keep for a decade.
Where It Falls Short
Fit is the whole issue. Buyers who assumed universal compatibility found the mounting pattern did not match their hull, and there is no included template to fall back on. Polypropylene is also less rigid than aluminum or stainless over a long service life, which matters on a hull that sees current and chop every trip.
Because it is designed for specific kayak models, the bolt spacing will not necessarily line up with anything already drilled in a jon boat deck. Budget a trip to the hardware store for new fasteners, or better, plan the install around a plate you control.
6. Haswing Quick Mount Bow Bracket
AQUOS Haswing Quick Mount Bracket for Bow Mount Trolling Motors
- Bow mount quick release
- Plastic construction
- 16.5 x 7.5 inch overall
- 9 x 4.6 inch base
Pros
- Three-step install and removal with minimal effort
- Rigid positive lock eliminates noise and movement
- Lockable design deters theft
- Compact base saves deck space
Cons
- Built specifically for Haswing bow-mount motors
- Plastic is less rigid than metal quick releases over time
- Narrow motor brand limit
If your bow mount motor is a Haswing, this bracket is the clean install. It is designed as a direct partner for Haswing bow mount electric trolling motors, which means the motor bolts straight on and the quick release handles removal in three steps. The overall footprint is 16.5 by 7.5 inches with a 9 by 4.6 inch base, so it sits compactly on a small bow.
The rigid positive locking mechanism is what owners mention most. A trolling motor that moves inside its mount makes noise, and noise on a jon boat in shallow water is the difference between catching fish and chasing them away. The lockable design also means an expensive motor left on an open trailer is less of an invitation.
It is worth being clear about the trade here. This is a plastic quick release, and plastic loses stiffness over years of sun and vibration compared with the anodized aluminum brackets in this roundup. On a boat that lives outside or in full sun, expect the fit to feel looser eventually and plan to check it.
Because the base is compact, it leaves usable deck space in front of and beside the motor, which is the right behavior on a jon boat where the bow is also your casting platform and your loading area.
Who This Mount Suits
It suits Haswing owners who want their motor off the boat at the end of every trip, and anglers who share a motor between a jon boat and an inflatable or small dinghy. It is also a reasonable pick for anyone who fishes a lot of very shallow water, because removing the motor is fast enough to do every time.
If you need a bracket that tolerates being banged and dropped in a truck bed, a metal quick release is the safer long-term choice.
Where It Falls Short
Brand compatibility is the hard limit. This bracket is built for Haswing bow mount motors and is not a universal plate, so if your motor is a Minn Kota, MotorGuide, Lowrance or Garmin unit you will need the manufacturer plate or a universal puck instead.
The other recurring note is that plastic quick releases feel less solid than metal ones after a few seasons, particularly in cold weather when the material stiffens and loosens. Inspect the base bolts and the lock mechanism at the start of each season, and do not use the lock as a structural load path when you are leaning on the motor to push off the bow.
7. Newport Heavy Gauge Aluminum Transom Mount
Newport Trolling Motor Transom Motor Mount – Kayaks – Freshwater and Saltwater – 1 Size, Gray
- Transom mount
- Heavy gauge powder-coated aluminum
- Rated to 3 HP
- Standard bolt pattern
Pros
- Heavy gauge aluminum with a gloss black powder-coated finish
- Salt water and fresh water compatible
- Standard 3.75 by 4.75 inch bolt pattern matches many hulls
- Polymer transom plates are removable and replaceable
Cons
- Costs more than plastic transom mounts
- Bolt pattern must match the boat exactly
- Transom position only
This is the transom mount to buy if your jon boat ever touches salt or brackish water, and the reason is the finish. Heavy gauge aluminum with a gloss black powder coat resists the pitting that ruins raw steel and cheap zinc hardware in a year or two of tidal creek fishing, and the aluminum locking lip is rated to 3 HP, which covers any clamp-on electric motor on a jon hull.
The 3.75 by 4.75 inch bolt pattern is described as widely used, and that matters more than it sounds. If your boat already has a pattern at those dimensions, the install is a bolt-down. If it does not, you are drilling new holes in an aluminum transom, and that changes the calculus on a stern you may not want to open.
Another detail owners appreciate is that the polymer transom plates are removable and replaceable. Those are the sacrificial pads that take the clamp load, and when a plastic part wears out on a three-year-old mount, replacing two small plates is a far better afternoon than replacing the whole assembly.
At about 3.7 pounds, this is one of the heavier mounts in the roundup, so on a short hull factor it into the same trim conversation. It carries a one-year limited warranty.
Who This Mount Suits
It suits saltwater and brackish anglers who want a fixed stern position without giving up hardware that can survive the water. It is a sensible choice for a boat that fishes both a lake in the summer and a coastal creek in the fall, and for anyone who wants the option to run the motor on the stern for towing or slow approach work.
It is also the pick if you are starting from scratch on a hull with no existing motor pattern, because a standard pattern means any future replacement mount will fit the same holes.
Where It Falls Short
It costs more than the plastic transom mounts in this roundup, and the extra spend is only worth it if corrosion is a real risk for you. On a freshwater lake with a garage-kept boat, a well-built plastic transom bracket will serve the same function for a fraction of the money.
The bolt pattern is a hard requirement, not a guideline. Owners report that everything works well once the spacing matches and that nothing works when it does not. It is a stern-only mount, so it does not answer the bow steering question at all.
8. Wilderness Systems Stainless Steel Transom Mount
Wilderness Systems Transom Trolling Motor Mount for Kayaks
- Transom mount
- 13-gauge stainless steel
- 2.7 lb
- Marine board backing plate
Pros
- Heavy duty 13-gauge stainless steel construction
- Marine board backing plate keeps the motor clamp tight
- Installs simply on flat sterns with standard spacing
- Solid build quality for the money
Cons
- Plate can be too thin for some motor clamps and needs a shim
- Will not fit recessed mounting locations without modification
- Does not fit every Wilderness Systems hull without notching
Stainless steel is the material to look for if you are worried about hardware staining and seizing, and this bracket is 13-gauge stainless throughout with a marine board backing plate behind it. The backing plate is the detail that matters, because it is what spreads the clamp load and stops the motor bracket from chewing into the deck surface over time.
The 3.75 by 4.75 inch rectangular hole pattern is again the industry-standard spacing, and the recommended ceiling is 3 HP or about 70 pounds of thrust with a 45 pound maximum weight capacity. At 2.7 pounds and roughly 8.6 by 8.8 by 4 inches, it is a solid, compact stern mount.
Build quality is what the reviews praise most, along with how straightforward the install is on a flat stern. This is a mount that feels like it will still be there in ten years, which is a different conversation from a plastic bracket you will replace twice in that span.
Owners do raise a fit caveat that matters on a jon boat specifically. The plate is not always thick enough for certain motor clamps to tighten fully, and the common fix among owners is a wood or plastic shim between the plate and the deck, which is a five-minute job with material you already have.
Who This Mount Suits
It suits saltwater anglers and anyone who has been burned by hardware that rusted into a bracket they could not remove. It is a good match for a boat with a wide flat transom and a standard hole pattern, and for people who would rather buy one stainless bracket than cycle through replacement hardware every season.
On a 14 to 16 ft jon boat used for trolling a shoreline or working a creek channel, the 70 pound thrust recommendation is enough headroom for most anglers and loads.
Where It Falls Short
The shim issue is real and consistent in the reviews. Before you commit, put a clamp on the plate and see how far it tightens. If the clamp cannot reach full bite, add a marine board or hardwood shim under the plate so the fastener has something solid to pull against.
Fit is also narrower than the pattern suggests. Boats with a recessed mounting location may not work because of mold and cutout differences, and some hulls in this brand’s own range need the sides notched to fit. Measure the transom and compare it against the physical plate rather than trusting the pattern alone.
9. Endura Transom Mount Bracket 2991815A
Endura Transom Mount Bracket PN# 2991815A
- Transom mount
- Plastic construction
- 2.3 lb
- Replaces part number 2991815A
Pros
- Direct replacement for the original Johnson and Endura part number
- Straightforward install for handy owners
- Can hold a pole or improvised rudder
Cons
- Plastic threads strip against metal screws
- One unit arrived missing the shaft lock
- No instructions included
This bracket earns its place for a narrow but real reason: if your existing Endura transom bracket snapped and you want the same part number back, this is it. It is a replacement-style transom mount for trolling motors or accessory poles, part number 2991815A, and owners who matched the original part number report it working as intended.
It is also the lowest-rated mount in this roundup at 4.0 stars across 105 reviews, with a meaningful share of one-star feedback. We are not going to dress that up. The complaints cluster around plastic threads that strip when driven by metal screws, missing hardware, and the complete absence of instructions.
At 2.3 pounds and 11.5 by 8.03 by 6.5 inches, it is small and light enough for a compact stern, and it handles a pole or an improvised rudder as readily as a motor. For a jon boat used as a tender or a crab trap runner, that flexibility is the actual selling point.
The realistic use is as a spare. Keep one of these in the truck for a bracket that cracks on a ramp, rather than building a season around it.
Who This Mount Suits
It suits an owner replacing one specific broken part on an older boat, and anyone who wants a cheap bracket for light duty work such as holding a pole. The install is a straightforward DIY job for someone comfortable with a drill and a wrench, and it takes about an hour with basic tools.
If your boat still carries the original bracket and the threads are fine, replacing the part rather than upgrading the whole assembly is the sensible move.
Where It Falls Short
Plastic threads stripping against metal screws is the most damaging complaint, because a stripped thread in a transom bracket means new holes in your stern. Use stainless screws of the correct length and torque them properly rather than over-tightening into plastic.
One unit arrived without the shaft lock that stops the shaft telescoping, and there are no instructions in the box. Check the full hardware count before you leave, and if you are installing new, budget extra time for figuring out the geometry on the boat.
10. Sunluway MKA-21 Composite Quick Release Bracket
For Minn Kota 1854021 Quick Release Bracket MKA-21 fits Ulterra, Terrova, Deckhand 40, PowerDrive, PowerDrive V2 /Pontoon Trolling Motors, For Minn Kota Trolling Motor Mounting Bracket
- Bolt-on quick release
- Composite material
- U-handle lock with stainless pins
- Drilling required
Pros
- Costs noticeably less than the factory Minn Kota plate
- Composite material resists rust and salt water oxidation
- Quick on and off with a padlock hole
- Stainless screws and hardware included
Cons
- Included drill template has the wrong hole pattern
- Not compatible with 72 inch or longer shafts or 112 pound thrust motors
- Drilling is required for the deck plate
If you want the factory Minn Kota quick release layout without the factory price, this composite bracket is the answer. It is built as a replacement for the OEM MKA-21 and 1854021 plates and fits the Ulterra, Terrova, PowerDrive, PowerDrive V2, PowerDrive Pontoon and Deckhand 40 heads, with a 12-month warranty behind it.
The two-plate design is the same quick release architecture anglers describe on fishing forums: the outer plate attaches to the motor, the inner plate bolts to the deck, and a locking U-handle with stainless steel pins holds the two together. When you take the motor off, the low-profile inner plate leaves the deck clear instead of leaving a raised block you can trip over.
The material choice is the quiet strength here. High stability composite is resistant to rust, corrosion, discoloration, UV and salt water oxidation, which means the deck plate will not leave the rust streaks down the side of a light-colored hull the way raw steel hardware can.
Owners consistently call it a solid budget stand-in for the OEM plate, and the box includes stainless screws, nuts, washers and a template. The padlock hole on the U-handle means an expensive motor left installed is still secure.
There is a fit warning that repeats more than any other in the reviews, and it matters: the included drill template has the wrong hole pattern. Mark your holes from the inner deck plate itself, laid out on the hull, and ignore the paper template entirely. Doing it that way also lets you confirm the plate clears the bow tip before you drill.
Who This Mount Suits
It suits budget-conscious owners who already run a compatible Minn Kota head and want a quick release they can remove at the ramp. It is a good match for a boat that lives outdoors in sun and salt, since composite holds up better than steel in that environment and will not rust onto the deck.
It is also useful as a spare. If your primary plate cracks or a fishing trip bends the mounting ears, having a second plate and a set of stainless fasteners in the truck saves the weekend.
Where It Falls Short
It is not for every Minn Kota motor. The bracket does not support 72 inch or longer shafts or 112 pound thrust units, which rules out the biggest head sizes. Check your motor model before ordering, and if you have the largest shaft, buy the factory plate.
Drilling is required for the deck plate, so on a thin riveted aluminum hull you need a backing doubler underneath and isolator bolts or nyloc nuts on top, or you will be back on the forum asking why the mount keeps working loose. The listed weight is 1.78 kg, which is worth knowing if you are counting bow weight.
Bow, Transom or Side Mount: Which One Does a Jon Boat Need?
A bow mount bracket bolts a quick-release base to the bow deck and puts the motor where you steer it with a foot pedal or remote. It is the most common choice on jon boats because it adds weight forward, which is the direction most of these hulls want, and it frees both hands for casting. The cost is drilling, a backing plate, and a share of the limited bow deck.
A transom mount bracket clamps over the stern with a lever and no holes at all. You steer with a hand tiller, the motor sits lower in the water, and the whole install is an afternoon. On older boats with a full-width transom, a raised gunwale, or a bow already occupied by a fish finder, this is frequently the correct answer rather than a compromise.
A side mount attaches along the hull side and lets you lift the motor clear for stumps, oyster beds and shallow grass. It is the least common option on jon boats because the flat riveted side panels are exactly where you least want to drill, and the motor swing is awkward in current.
The one universal rule: on a jon hull, weight forward usually improves trim. Anglers debate adding weight to the stern once a bow mount is installed, and the practical answer is that a bow-mounted motor counteracts the natural stern bias of a hull with the load amidships, so a rear-heavy rig needs less counterweight, not more.
Plate Size, Material and the Hardware That Actually Holds
Plate size is the specification that decides whether a mount fits your motor, and it is the one most often got wrong. The common standard pattern is 7 by 20 inch, while a 9 by 14 inch wide pattern suits the Minn Kota Terrova and Ulterra class of heads. They are not interchangeable, and a wide plate needs more deck space than a small bow has.
Material is the second specification. Marine-grade 5052 aluminum at .125 inch is the benchmark for a bolt-on plate, because it is stiff, light and does not rust. Powder-coated aluminum is the next best thing and resists the streaking that raw hardware leaves down a hull. Cheap steel bolts on an aluminum deck will show rust stains within a season whether or not the mount is stainless.
Hardware is where most jon boat mount failures actually start. The specification worth aiming for is 1/4 inch stainless steel bolts, nyloc locking nuts, flat washers, a backing plate or doubler on the inside of the hull, and marine sealant on every hole. The supplied screws in the box are almost always the weakest link, and several mounts in this roundup are criticized precisely for short or bright-coated fasteners.
Isolator bolts, with a rubber or neoprene sleeve around the fastener, spread vibration instead of transmitting it straight into the deck. They are not sold with most mounts, they are cheap, and they are the single most recommended add-on in angler install threads, because vibration is what turns a loose bolt into a pull-through.
For corrosion care, rinse the mount in fresh water after every saltwater trip and check the hardware before the season starts. If your boat lives in brackish water, a nyloc nut and a stainless bolt is the minimum, and a plastic or composite plate beats raw steel in the long run.
How to Mount a Trolling Motor on a Jon Boat
Measure first. Confirm the gunnel width and depth for a clamp mount, or the deck space and plate pattern for a bolt-on. Lay the plate on the bow and check that the motor head will not hang past the bow tip.
Reinforce the bow. Cut or drill a backing plate or doubler from marine plywood or aluminum and bond it inside the hull under the mounting area. On a thin riveted hull this is the difference between a mount that holds and a mount that pulls through.
Mark every hole before drilling. Use the physical plate or puck as the template rather than any paper template, and check the pattern against the motor head you already own.
Drill small pilot holes. A pilot hole the same diameter as the bolt shank, or slightly smaller, keeps the aluminum from splitting as you drive the fastener. Work from inside the hull with a backing block so the drill bit does not punch through and bend the deck skin.
Seal everything. Coat each hole with marine sealant before the bolt goes in and again under the nut, and bed the plate in sealant across its whole footprint. Isolation washers under the head are worth adding.
Bolt with stainless and nyloc nuts. Torque the fasteners evenly in a cross pattern so the plate seats evenly, do not overtighten, and re-check them after the first few hours of running. Then run the motor cable and secure it so it cannot chafe on the gunwale.
If you would rather not drill at all, a clamp-on bow mount such as the EZ Mount in this roundup skips the entire sequence. The trade is a narrower gunnel specification and a mount that depends on clamp friction instead of fasteners.
Why Trolling Motor Mounts Walk Off a Jon Boat Bow
The most common complaint in angler forums is not that a mount is ugly, it is that a mount keeps working loose or comes off entirely. Four causes account for nearly all of it.
Wrong offset. If the plate is mounted on top of an existing raised plate, the motor ends up beyond the front tip of the bow. It is still secure, but it is working on a lever arm it was never designed for, and it will loosen in chop. Mount the plate flat and centered as far aft as the motor allows.
Fasteners that are too short or not locking. Without a backing plate, a bolt that only grips the thin deck skin and a nut that is not a nyloc will back out. This is the single most cited cause of pull-through, and the fix costs less than a replacement deck.
No doubler under the deck. A thin aluminum bow has nothing to distribute the load behind it. Add a backing plate inside the hull and the problem usually disappears.
Vibration. A motor that is rigidly coupled to the deck shakes the fasteners loose over a season. Rubber isolator bolts and a neoprene pad under the plate break that path and are the most popular install advice in jon boat communities.
One more failure worth naming: the gunwale sitting two inches above the deck on many jon boats. A flat plate on the deck puts the motor below the gunwale line and at the wrong height for steering, and the answer is an adjustable riser or a raised bracket rather than forcing a low plate into place.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where to mount a trolling motor on a jon boat?
Most jon boats take a bow mount bracket, and that is where the steering control and the forward weight come from. A transom mount bracket is the easier install and works well on older hulls with a full-width stern or a crowded bow. A side mount is the answer when the bow is already occupied and the motor needs to lift clear of stumps.
Should I mount my trolling motor on the front or back of my boat?
Mount it on the bow if you want foot or remote steering and hands-free casting, which is the default on most jon boats. Mount it on the transom if your bow is already carrying a fish finder, your gunwale sits above the deck, or you want to avoid drilling. Jon hulls generally benefit from weight forward, so a bow mount helps trim rather than hurting it.
Do I need a backing plate to mount a trolling motor on aluminum?
Yes, on a thin riveted jon hull a backing plate or doubler inside the hull is what distributes the load instead of letting bolts pull through the deck skin. Add nyloc nuts, 1/4 inch stainless steel bolts and marine sealant, and consider isolator bolts to break the vibration path that loosens fasteners.
What size bolts do I need for a trolling motor mount?
For most bow and deck plates, 1/4 inch stainless steel bolts with flat washers and nyloc locking nuts are the right choice. The length depends on your stack, so measure plate thickness, deck thickness, washer and the doubler you are adding inside the hull, and never rely on the fasteners supplied in the box without checking the length first.
Can you use a transom mount trolling motor on the bow?
You can, and owners do it, by rotating the motor head 180 degrees and mounting it to a flat plate on the bow. The trade is real: you lose foot control and steer by hand, and the shaft is often longer than a bow mount shaft, which drags in shallow water. It works best on small boats with a flat, uncluttered bow deck.
Is a 2 blade or 3 blade prop better for trolling motors?
A 3 blade prop moves more water quietly at low thrust, which is what most jon boat anglers want when holding a spot or working a shoreline. A 2 blade prop accelerates faster and throws less spray at higher speeds, and it is easier to clear debris. Match the choice to how you fish and to the prop clearance your mount and shaft allow.
Bottom Line on Jon Boat Trolling Motor Mounts
The best trolling motor mounts for jon boats are not the ones with the longest spec list. They are the ones that match your gunwale, your deck, your motor head and your willingness to drill. Our pick for most anglers is the EZ Mount clamp-on bow bracket, because it needs nothing from your hull and it fits the way jon boats are actually built.
If you already own a compatible Minn Kota head and want steering control, the factory quick release bracket is the most proven design available and the most reviewed product here. If you would rather not spend that much, the composite MKA-21 replacement gives you the same layout in a material that will not streak a light hull with rust.
Whatever you bolt or clamp to the bow, put a backing plate behind it, use stainless hardware with nyloc nuts, and check the fasteners before every trip. That habit matters more than any brand on this list.